Border Crossing #1: Bangkok to Siem Reap, Cambodia

On Friday we prepared ourselves for the notoriously 'difficult' border crossing from Thailand to Cambodia via Poipet - described in the Lonely Planet as the armpit of Cambodia - and virtually impossible to leave without becoming victim to one scam or another.

Our early start on Friday morning was somewhat hampered by an impromptu drinking session the night before - brought on by a Thai singer, who could have passed for Brian Adams if we'd been blindfolded, and a 'small' bottle of Samsong.

So, with groggy heads we set of to the bus station - which turned out to be far smarter, well organised and more luxurious than either of us were expecting. By 9:30 we were on an a/c bus (complete with free drinking water, apple rolls and coffee granules (no hot water though!?)) headed for the Thai border. We made friends with a Canadian couple, Duncan and Heather, from Toronto and agreed to stick together to beat the touts.

However, much to Olly and Duncan's disappointment there was no need for macho shows of ruthless bargaining or striding away from touts. A smiling tuk tuk driver pointed us in the direction of the border crossing (although she clearly wanted to drive us the 1km herself). To get to the border we had to walk through a market full of military uniform (we wondered if we should be buying some for the journey ahead), Thai food stalls (including a whole stall of fried insects) and pretty much whatever else you can think of.

No-man’s land was a surreal playground for the rich – at least five giant casinos crammed into the 500m space between Thailand and Cambodia. By the time we reached the crossing I was sweating so much I could hardly fill in the immigration form. I’ve never experienced water falling from my face quite like that before. I think I ended up with bits of tissue stuck to my face in an effort to dry my nose.

We ignored offers for “cheap” money change as we emerged into a relatively peaceful Cambodia. A transfer bus and a mini bus for ourselves and 6 other friendly travelers (at less than the recommended price) and we were off to Siem Reap. We arrived at Popular Guesthouse, just after 6pm ready for a shower!

First impressions of Cambodia....

• Within a few hundred meters of Thailand you notice the comparative poverty –wooden huts, fewer cars, more dust... but the people are smiling and incredibly welcoming.
• There are fewer people here - and very few of them look old. No doubt the consequence of recent history.
• The money is confusing – Cambodian Riels, US$ and Thai Baht all used at the same time, in one transaction if possible.

Jo