From Na Trangh to the DMZ

We quite happily got out of Na Trang as we felt we'd somehow slipped out of Vietnam into an alternate universe- where there was no culture. Plenty of hotels, holiday makers and drunken tourists though.

And so in search of Vietnam we travelled up the coast for a few hours, with a very curious British couple in their 50's, who were acting like petulant 19 year olds on their first trip abroad.  Jo had to get out of the minibus that was taking us to the bus station just to explain that it was a transfer bus and that we would be getting a 'real' bus from the bus station, to prevent the curious argument outside the bus from going on any longer, later we discovered the couple had been away for 9 years and had never learnt any of the language of the countries they'd been to (some of which they'd spent 1 year in). We ended up parting company when they started to complain about a 12 pence charge for taking a taxi from Quy Nhon bus depot.

Almost as soon as we arrived we were aware we were in Vietnam once again, no foreign tourists, no hassle and cheap beer. We also had the opportunity to visit leper beach, so named because the beach actually belongs to the leper hospital right next to it, the beach though was beautiful and deserted.

The next day we rented a scooter and for the first time in my life I rode one, Jo at this point decided that my 10 minute practise was enough learning, jumped on the back and said "go!" Quite the leap of faith.

We had a fantastic meal for only a few pounds of clams, giant prawns and ladyfingers, Jo would like me to state that "they were the most amazing clams in the world ever" - Hmm.

From that provincial fishing town we've travelled to Hoi An, which is without doubt the most charming and untouched town we have been to in Vietnam, it was untouched by the war and the old town with it's yellow buildings, bridges and silk lanterns is like a time gone by.

Today we headed off to some Cham ruins (as it turns out we are in the kingdom of Champa) Which are a bit more ruined than they by rights should be because the site was bombed by the US ( This site dated from 4th Century AD to the 12th) and is now a UNESCO world heritage site due to the blending of Indian Hinduism with the local culture at the time, which was pretty obsessed with genitals.

Must dash, have to go and see my tailor for my final fit of 2 lovely suits - a strange thing indeed whilst travelling, but at just 80 quid a suit it's hard to say no.